Below you'll find a compilation of commonly asked questions and a set of links that will guide you to the desired information.
For Colourant Information
The liquid colours in the dropper bottles are used for:
Farmhouse soap to obtain pastel results
Farmhouse glycerine soap
Glycerine soap tubes
Liquid soap
Bubble bath
Shower gel
Water based lotions
Bath Mousse
Soap Gel
Shaving soap
The liquid colours in the dropper bottles are used for:
Farmhouse soap to obtain pastel results
Farmhouse glycerine soap
Glycerine soap tubes
Liquid soap
Bubble bath
Shower gel
Water based lotions
Bath Mousse
Soap Gel
Shaving soap
The powder colours are used for:
Bath salts
Bath crystals
Bubble-Doh
Soap- Doh
Fizz Bop
Bath Snow
Salt pebbles
Bath Fizz
Fizz Bombs
Bath Tea
Oil soluble powder colours are used for:
CP and HP soaps (dissolve in hot oil first)
ALL candles (dissolve in hot oil first)
Mica colours and oxides are used for:
Any product that requires natural colouring
HP and CP soaps (only the purple and blue mica hues do not perform)
Natural makeup
Lip balm
Lip gloss
Eye shadow
Bath Salts
Bath crystals
Bath snow
Bath fizz
Fizz Bop
Soap paints are used only for painting on soap
Neon colours are used in ALL soaps and liquid soaps
Which colours are natural:
Micas
Oxides
Clays
Beta Carotene
Charcoa
Natural colouring agents for CP and HP soaps you may have at home:
Turmeric
Paprika
Cocoa powder
Charcoal
Tea
Coffee
Henna
About Sweating Soap
Soap can perspire due to two primary factors:
a) When you've crafted the soaps and left them uncovered to air-dry, and then it begins to rain. Prolonged and heavy rainfall can cause the atmospheric moisture to interact with the soap's inherent glycerine (which is hydroscopic and draws moisture), giving the soap a "sweaty" appearance.
b) Occasionally, after creating a batch of soaps, one or two might differ. This is typically due to overheating. When you melt a larger quantity of soap, it usually doesn't overheat. However, the final remnants in your jug or pot, especially when remelted, are more prone to excessive heat. This can cause the soap to lose moisture, which it then attempts to regain from the atmosphere once it has solidified.
Hence, it's vital to avoid overheating your soap. During the melting process, it shouldn't produce steam or come to a boil. Moreover, if there's a sudden change to rainy weather, ensure you promptly cover your soaps to prevent them from "sweating."
If your soaps do sweat, don't worry! Just wipe them down, wrap them up, and they'll be as good as new. They're not ruined; they just require a bit of care.
About Natural Products
All oils and butters are 100% natural
All herbs and flowers are 100% natural
All essential oils are 100% natural
All castile soap products are 100% natural
All Farmhouse soaps are 100% natural
All Farmhouse glycerine soaps are 100% natural
African Black soap is 100% natural
Soy wax for candles is 100% natural
Cosmetic soy wax is 100% natural
All salts are 100% natural
Fragrances are not natural
Colourings are not natural
Liquid soap base is not natural
Aqueous cream is not natural
Lotion base and body butter base are not natural
Emulsifying wax has both a natural and synthetic base
About Discounts
We structure our pricelist in a way that products are discounted in larger quantities wherever possible. For example Farmhouse soap is cheaper when bought in 5kg buckets and fragrances are 50% cheaper when bought in 100ml and a further 20% cheaper when bought in 500ml. All oils are cheaper when bought in 500ml and then again when bought in 5lts. All salts are cheaper when bought in 5kgs and then in 25kg or 50kg bags.
We feel that staggering our pricing so the more you buy of the product the cheaper it gets is the fairest way to discount our products. This means you don't have to be a registered company to get the best prices we offer.
Staggered pricing on larger quantities is the only discount we offer. All those prices are available in the shopping cart on our website